Saturday, March 8, 2008

Island Fever

Note: I wrote this in my journal earlier today on my trip to the Prince's islands off the coast of Istanbul- no laptops (or cars) allowed.

I'm so at peace right now. I took a ferry from the Galata Bridge near our hostel to the Prince's Islands- about 45 minutes off the coast of Istanbul in the Marmara Sea. Seagulls flocked around the boat as we sliced through the glimmering blue-green sea. A warm breeze and the sun on my face- perfect. I got off at Heybeliada Island, found a bike rental shop on the boardwalk and took off on an ill-fitting red mountain bike with squeaky breaks. I'm making my way around the island on a road that runs through a large state park of some kind. I just stopped to climb what looks like an old stone watchtower on the edge of a steep rock face overlooking the sea and the neighboring Islands. [Check out the view!]

The stairs to the tower were nothing but rusting steel frames (no actual steps), so it probably wasn't the safest decision to climb them, but I did it anyway. When I reached the top, I asked a Turkish man who was there with another man and two small children if he'd take my photo, and afterwards the kids chirped "Hello!" The little girl told me her name was Dora, and offered me a gummy bear. I asked the two men where they were from (Istanbul), and told them my origins and whereabouts when they asked. I love having conversations with local people here, they're so friendly.

This place is exactly what I needed. Quiet, beautiful, partially wooded, with sweeping views of the sea, nearby islands, and in the disance, the outline of the city skyline along the coast. Birds chirping, sailboats floating by, couples picnicing in the grass- after a week in the colorful but chaotic city, this feels like paradise.




Later I hopped back on the ferry to check out a second island, Büyükada. It reminded me of a cross between Key West and Mackinac Island, before both became tourist meccas. Beautiful colorful villas, palm trees, winding streets full of fruit vendors and fish restaurants. I had the two best culinary experiences of the trip yet- no joke. First, a waffle (homemade before my very eyes) smothered in dark chocolate sauce with sliced bananas, sprinkled with crushed pistachios, followed by a piece of fire-baked pita bread with melted mozzarella cheese and miniature salty mushrooms. I ate them both sitting on the deck of the ferry, watching the sun set over the water. Could not have been a more perfect day.