It's hard to believe we've been in Krakow for almost a week now. I've spent the past seven days getting used to my new surroundings, learning more about the people with whom I'll be sharing this experience, and trying to find that middle ground between a comfortable routine and an appetite for adventure.
Before I jump into a few of my initial observations, I'd like to comment for a moment on this blog's title: Liz in Transition. I wanted to incorporate the program's academic focus: how Europe is "transitioning" in the wake of the social, economic, and political developments of recent decades, as well as what I hope will be opportunity for intellectual and personal growth as I embark on a few transitions of my own: the transition from comfortable native student to foreigner traveling abroad, the transition from passive observer to contemplative interpretor, and the transition from, as Professor Rowe puts it, "a consumer of knowledge to a producer of knowledge." That last one's a bit lofty, but it's something I like to keep in mind.
So, week 1 in Krakow. These first few days were a whirlwind of activity, with only a few short stretches of unaccounted for time in which I honestly sometimes felt anxious, overwhelmed, and a little homesick. I was glad when our program director, Kim, assigned this field journal, because I thought it would give me the opportunity to turn my attention outward a little bit more. Here's how it's going to work: every day I'll try to jot down some of my basic observations and experiences, things that I noticed out in the streets, or sitting in a cafe, or ordering from a kebab stand, or hanging out at a bar. When I can, I'll try to include some of my personal reflections on those observations or experiences, and also try to tie together how they relate to the ideas we're exploring in our readings and lectures. I'll also try to supplement with extra stuff when I can: photos, videos, links, etc. Sound good?
Ready, set, let's go.
"A beautiful bird, I will not shoot"
Our first full day in Krakow, we had a tour of the city, and I was struck by how much history is here in Krakow, and how much it seems to matter. In the states, nothing is older than 200 years old. Here, it wasn't unusual for the tour guide to note that a particular building was from the fourteenth or fifteenth century. At the start of the tour, he showed us a giant birds'-eye-view map of Krakow, and gave us a short synopsis of the city's history- starting from before the birth of Christ! He would frequently preface an explanation or a story with the phrase "You have to understand the history of _______" (Krakow, Poland, Central Europe, etc.) For instance, he said he always corrects people who pronounce the city's name "Kra-kow," rather than "Kra-kov" because the former is the German pronunciation, and no one wants to be reminded of the German occupation of WWII, or the city's repeated battles with the German Teutonic knights during the Middle Ages. He told us the legend of Poland's founding, when three brothers, Lech, Czech and Rus, were traveling around looking for a place to settle. To make a very long story short, Lech entered a forest looking for some game to shoot and eat, looked up and saw a bald eagle set against the background of a red sunset, was overcome by its beauty, and decided that he had found his new home. Ta-da, Poland! That's kind of a silly example of history, but that symbol is everywhere, and it's clear that it means something to people. Our tour guide was very proud of his country and its contributions to society, Marie Curie, Fredrick Chopin, Joseph Conrad, constitutionalism, religious freedom, the military adademy, etc. Even the main church we visited, St. Mary's Basilica, seemed to be bursting with history; stained glass windows didn't just tell biblical stories, they showcased Poland's flag or Krakow's coat of arms. Every surface of the church was a canvas for illustrating the stories and people that matter to Krakow and to Poland.
